Fruit trees in the garden require different watering methods at different times of the year. So, when to water and how much to water so that the orchard harvests a good harvest every year? In this article, we will study with the website bubgo.com how to water fruit trees in the garden at different times and the watering rules.
Sooner or later the gardener has to plant new fruit trees in his garden. Of course, after planting, the seedlings must be watered. It doesn't matter when you plant: in spring in moist soil, in summer, from a container, or in autumn. Watering is still necessary.
The first watering not only saturates the seedlings with water but also requires greater compaction of the soil around the root system. Therefore, you should not just pour 2 buckets of water under the seedlings and observe how it spreads throughout the site, washing away the loose soil around the seedlings. It's best to put a sprinkler in and turn down the water pressure so the spray doesn't fly farther than the trunk circle.
If there is no running water on-site, it is best to water with a spray can first. By pouring the same 2 buckets of water under the seedlings with a spray can, you will use it more efficiently.
So, plant the seedlings and water them. If the season is not very rainy, you need to water the seedlings regularly throughout the summer and fall. First, you must water with a sprinkler or spray can before compacting the soil in the planting hole, as well as when planting the seedlings. Then, you can simply place the hose in the trunk ring and turn on the small water pressure.
If it rains in mid-summer, water only when the soil is very dry. In rainy summers, watering may not be necessary at all. In dry summers, you must water frequently and heavily or you will lose it.
For seedlings in their first year of planting, you should water them at least once a week. If you water with a sprinkler, keep track of the time. It takes about 2 hours to water (this pattern is an average for summer, you will need to water more often in drought).
In the second year of a tree's life on your site, watering is no longer required as it was in the first season. Now you will only water the tree when necessary: in extreme heat or when there has been no rain for a long time. At the beginning of spring, there is already enough water. The method of irrigation also does not depend on the time of crop maturity.
If it does not rain for a long time, it is worth starting watering if the soil is dry and if you dig it with a spade. In this case, the tree should be watered. The time and manner of the watering can coincide with the manner of watering the seedlings in the first year.
However, in these cases, you should not be too enthusiastic. In fact, during the last season, the tree has developed an extensive root system that needs not only water but also breathing. If water is constantly sprinkled around the tree, little to no air flows into the soil. As a result, the root system may rot and the tree may die.
The first sign of a problem with the root system may be the drying out of the newly flowering leaves. Noticing this phenomenon, try to loosen the soil in the trunk ring. If there is too much water, this event will increase the chance of air entering the roots and the tree will gradually recover.
Trees over 3 years old no longer need watering. Usually, they are watered only during very dry summers or during fruit ripening. It also needs to be watered heavily and regularly in autumn. This allows the trees to be better prepared for winter and to avoid frost damage to a large extent.
Abundant fall watering is particularly useful for plums and cherries. Drupes are vulnerable in the cold of winter, but if they are well watered in the fall, then winter will pass without too much damage.
Pre-winter watering is done after the leaves have fallen from the trees. Also be aware that different species and varieties drop their leaves at different times, so fall watering is different for each tree. If possible, water each tree with 2 buckets of water per day for a week. In most cases, this will be sufficient.
It is possible to irrigate seedlings and young trees during the hot and dry summer months. However, you need to remember that this should be done in cloudy weather, preferably at sunset or in the evening after sunset. If it rains during the day, the water droplets will focus on the sun and the leaves will be burned.
Spray adult fruit trees as a precautionary measure before a possible return frost. This treatment increases the resistance of the leafy canopy to sudden temperature changes. In this case, sprinkling is carried out throughout the night and ends before dawn.
Watering trees older than 15 years can be used in combination with fertilization. However, it should be remembered that simply spreading mineral fertilizer on the ground or watering with nutrients diluted in water will result in a large chemical depletion with minimal impact. To fertilize with mineral fertilizer, make 5-6 grooves along the perimeter of the near-stem ring, for example, which drive the waste to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) below the ground and pull it out.
Pour a handful of compost into each of these holes and cover them with soil. Afterward, place a sprinkler under the tree so that the water is evenly distributed in a circle around the entire trunk, capturing the fertilizer application. Such a catch-up fertilizer is enough for 2-3 years.
If organic fertilizer is applied, a trench is dug around the tree along the perimeter of the trunk circle, into which the fertilizer is placed and covered with soil. Afterward, water the tree in the same way as when applying fertilizer.
Thus, watering young or mature trees is an important factor in the health of your garden pet.
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